Ever fantasized about a far-flung island Eden where the water is gin-clear, the landscapes as lush as a Gauguin painting and the footprints on the sand few and far between? The good news is, such a place exists—and its name is as evocative as the place itself: Huahine, which means “woman” in Tahitian. One of Tahiti’s outer isles, Huahine was once a secluded retreat for royalty. Today it remains an off-the-radar retreat for travelers allergic to packaged cruises and glitzy resorts.
What you’ll find instead are two small islands—Huahine Nui and Huahine Iti—set together like two pearls in an azure lagoon dotted with healthy reefs. Dive in, and you’ll discover both brim with authentic sights and experiences— everything from ancient Polynesian temples to world-class surfing, sailing and trekking opportunities, creating a true island gem.
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Circle Island Tour
Totaling just 47-square miles, for such small pair of islands, Huahine, with its multiple bays and twisting roads, can seem deceptively large. Trust us, you won’t want to miss any of it (and car rentals are pricey) so do a guided circle island tour, like the ones offered by the locals at Poe Island Tour. They’ll transport you island-style in a 4×4 pickup to must-see spots like the ancient “Marae” or temple of Anini, a vanilla farm (fun fact, vanilla plants are actually in the orchid family), and a working pearl farm, where you’ll be ferried by boat. Other stops include the lookout known as Belvedere, with its stunning views of Maroe Bay and the hamlet of Faie to see its most famous denizens: blue-eyed freshwater eels. The day concludes with a homemade meal featuring island specialties such as the Polynesian-style ceviche known as poisson cru, followed by a Tahitian dance lesson so you can work-off the rich desserts.
A Traditional Tahitian Feast
At beachfront restaurant Chez Tara (+689 40 68 78 45), Huahine’s natural bounty is on display with flavorful flair. Run by an island matriarch, the sand-floor, open air venue is open for lunch Tuesday through Friday. But it’s Sunday’s Ma’a Tahiti, a local term for traditional food, which should be on your hit-list. The feast, complete with live Tahitian music, starts at noon, but for foodie extra points, show up around 10:30 am and you will see the cooks open the traditional imu, or underground oven, as the pig and other baked goodies are removed. Then line-up buffet style for delicacies like poisson cru, the Polynesian staple known as taro, local fish, fafa (coco and taro leaf) chicken, sweet red banana salad and three types of pork dishes.
Catch a Tahitian Dance Spectacle
We know Janet and Jagger got moves, but hey, wait till you check out the local Tahitian dancers. There are only two hotels on the island, the Maitai Lapita Village and the Hotel Le Mahana (both appealing, laidback three stars) and both feature weekly dance performances. You don’t need to be a guest to attend, just make a dinner reservation, show up early for a good table and get ready for the show. Musicians play traditional instruments like the wooden to’ere drum while dancers from troupes like Huahine-based Tamarii Orirau go through an entertaining repertoire of traditional Tahitian dances. And hey about that front-row seat—you just might get pulled up and asked to join the dancers.
Experience Huahine’s Active Adventures
If you’re the active type, welcome to the ultimate Polynesian playground. Whether you surf, sail, dive, hike or bike (and the list goes on) you can do it here in gorgeous surroundings without the crowds. Our pro tip: head south to Parea on Huahine Iti and experience the Go Deeper Surfhouse run by local Stephan Lambert. A pro waterman and guide, his enclave on an isolated peninsula is a sporty mash-up of an intimate lodge and ultimate activities center brimming with boards of all types, e-bikes and even a pizza oven. Get a day membership or stay overnight in one of his two bungalows, then get that pulse rate up surfing the local break, paddling the Instagram-ready lagoon or catching a ride in a sailing canoe. E-bike tours are also available and when lunchtime rolls around, homemade pizza is on the menu.
Find Your Piece of Paradise
So that idyllic beach you’ve been dreaming about? It’s called Hana Iti. It takes a little work to get there, but so do most five-star experiences. We suggest going by bike or e-bike. If you’re staying at the Go Deeper Surfhouse, Stephan will set you up with an e-bike and you’ll have a pleasant, half-hour ride to the northwest corner of Huahine Iti to get there. Whichever form of transportation you choose, you’ll want to look for the sign for the Haapu Bay Belvedere lookout. Head several hundred yards north on the paved road, then west on a dirt trail (no cars!) for one kilometer and you’ll arrive. What you’ll discover is a shady, forested area which opens up to a powdery white stretch of sand and a calm, topaz sea you’ll swear must be Photoshopped. It’s not. It’s as real as the huge smile that’s sure to spread across your face.
