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How to Explore Off the Beaten Track in Berlin

Germany’s capital Berlin is a city of contrasts, a mix of old and new, glamorous and relaxed. With an air of intrigue and inclusivity, Berlin continues to enchant visitors from across the globe. The once-divided historic city is filled with well-known landmarks, hidden gems and the stories of thousands of interesting people.

Bodemuseum. Photo courtesy of visitBerlin.

Once you have explored the Museum Island, seen the Berlin Wall, passed through Checkpoint Charlie, marveled at the Brandenburg gate and shopped at KaDeWe – try these off-the-beaten-track ideas to see another side of this fascinating city and invest in a Berlin Welcome Card to get around easily and enjoy discounts at attractions. 

Mies van der Rohe house. Photo by Lucy Morgan.
Visit an architectural treasure and learn about life in the Communist East

Celebrated architect and last director of the Bauhaus movement, Ludwig Mies Van der Rohe, favored simplicity in design. Tucked in a corner of East Berlin,  the “Landhaus Lemke” – which he designed in 1932, is a perfect example of his work.

With clean lines, a spacious interior, and gardens that appear to flow seamlessly into Obersee park, this house was originally built as a “small and modest home” for a couple named  Karl and Martha Lemke. They only lived in the house until 1945, when it was seized by the Red army and used by the East German Secret Police as a storeroom, garage, and laundry.

The house has now been restored to its former glory and has become a beautiful exhibition space. Combine a visit with a walk around Obersee Park – where a series of QR codes located on benches offers a German language audio tour of the area. Finish the adventure at an unusual bar secreted in a former water tower that opens to visitors at weekends.

Obersee Lake (top). Obersee Lake statue. Photo by Lucy Morgan (bottom).
Find a love token in Tiergarten

A stone’s throw from Brandenburg Gate, the large green space of Tiergarten, complete with lakes, play areas, and forest is a wonderful spot to take a break from sightseeing.

Once the playground of the ruling classes, who hunted game across Tiergarten’s many acres, today  this huge city park holds one of Berlin’s hidden treasures – part romantic gesture, part tribute to songwriter Ben E. King. A pair of trees have been lovingly carved with the lyrics to world famous ballad “Stand By Me” . One scarred tree holds the words to the verse, another the chorus. The identity of the romantic artist behind the carvings remains a mystery – but the trees have become a site of music pilgrimage. Find them near the intersection of Grosser Weg and Grosser Sternallee. 

Claerchens Ballhaus. Photo by Bernd Schoenberger.
Dance the night away in a historic ball room in the city center

Clärchen’s Ballhaus has been hosting dance parties since 1913 and is one of the last remaining 20th-century ballrooms in Berlin. Named after owner Clara Bühler, a native Berliner who loved to dance, Clärchen’s is located in the Mitte district – its historic interior has been preserved, making it a wonderful living museum of the early twentieth century. The ground floor holds a charming restaurant, the first-floor “hall of mirrors” is a stunning event space hosting dance classes and private parties.

This storied ballroom was reputed to be a popular meeting place during the Cold War for people from both the East and West sides of the city. Its original features and striking interior design makes it an attractive film location – Clärchen’s featured in Tarantino’s “Inglourious Basterds.”

Prism service (left). Squab glazed with Ras el Hanut and honey. Photos by Lucy Morgan (right).
Take a trip to the Levant at a Michelin-starred restaurant in Charlottenburg

Berlin’s status as an international city is reflected by its dining scene at all price points. Its reputation and location attract chefs from across the globe, keen to share their cuisine with curious locals and tourists. Prism, an elegant restaurant tucked away in a quiet corner of Charlottenburg, offers a glimpse into the flavors of the Levant, across an imaginative and beautifully executed tasting menu. Chef Gal Ben Moshe combines the flavors of his home region with techniques from his European fine dining training, to create dishes that reflect his personal journey. Camel meat and milk, Lebanese spiny lobster, Mallouf cabbage and Israeli caviar join forces with high-end international ingredients like A5 Kagoshima Wagyu beef. Ben Moshe’s unique cooking style has been rewarded – Prism received its first Michelin star in March 2020.

Bench on the runway at Tempelhof airport. Photo by Lucy Morgan.
Explore an abandoned airport with a complicated history

The largest park in Berlin has enjoyed a series of unusual incarnations. It spent time as a military parade ground, before being earmarked by Hitler for a showcase airport. During the cold war it found itself in the West, helping airlift supplies into a city under siege. Since then it has also been used as a refugee shelter and vaccine processing center

A huge crescent building over a kilometer long houses the abandoned airport buildings – and visitors can take a tour to explore their empty halls. Today, the runways and fields have been repurposed as community and leisure spaces. A flock of sheep grazes near the perimeter fence. There are community gardens and rewilding areas, skate parks, dog parks and barbecue areas. Grab a drink from an unusual bar in the late afternoon – it’s a great place to watch the sunset.

Tempelhoferfeld. Photo courtesy of visitBerlin.

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