As always, when I wander the hilly warren of cobblestoned streets in Quebec City, I feel intoxicatingly lost in time. Today’s no different; as if on cue, a horse-drawn carriage patters by, its driver wrapped in layers of coats, his old-fashioned hat rimmed with snow. Above me, a castle towers, its romantic, Loire-valley-style fairytale architecture teasing me to expect a princess and her regal entourage awaiting inside. Having gingerly tip-toed up an icy, gas lamp-illuminated alleyway to a vantage point this early winter morning, I look out to a vista that embraces the magnificence of the historic, now quasi-frozen St. Lawrence River, and the patchwork of centuries-old buildings that cascade in irregular undulations down to its ship littered shore. There’s really not much to indicate the 21st century at all—and I half expect to see famed French explorer Samuel de Champlain, a feather in his 17th-century navigator’s cap, stroll over to tell me stories of how he founded Quebec and New France as a fur trading post in 1608.
To visit this UNESCO World Heritage site, with its well-preserved ramparts is to immerse in history. But, it’s also an au courant city, a haven for artists, poets, chefs, gastronomes and designers. Now a popular cruise ship port, once home to native people, later the battleground between French and English, Quebec showcases architecture and traditions that boast more than 400 years of history. Crowded with day trippers in summer months, the town’s trendy boutiques, chic restaurants, museums, avant-garde galleries and friendly bars, seem quieter in winter—but just as alluring. With its ideal mix of old and new, the quixotic haven embodies a distinctly European essence—a rarity in North America. Here, the French language dominates, and the city proudly pays attention to French culture and modern Gallic trends, adapting them with a Quebecoise affability and well entrenched frontier spirit. Read on to find out what we love about this capital city.
WHERE TO STAY
Hotel de Glace
The only ice hotel in North America, this igloo mansion is constructed entirely of snow and ice. Seasonal, it’s open only from January to March, but check in during winter and you’ll be awed by how ornate and cozy ice architecture can be. Snuggle in a lavish honeymoon suite, pose for photos in the grand hall, stand beneath carved ice chandeliers, drink vodka from an inviting ice bar (complete with chunky ice glasses) and slumber in an ice bed, topped—n’est-ce pas— with fur blankets. Return each year for a new experience, as the masterpiece melts each summer and gets a rebuild when the weather turns cold.
Monsieur Jean
Whimsical, quirky Monsieur Jean transports guests to a theatrical space that typifies modern Quebec’s glamour and creativity. Imbued with the elusive presence of a venerable fictional host, Mr. Jean, this beautiful hotel in the Old Quarter, just steps from Rue Saint-Jean and all Quebec’s attractions, feels like walking into an Alice in Wonderland storybook page of fantastical cool. An artistic and wholly upscale boutique stay, the cleverly designed hotel (art deco meets Louis XIV) has 49 swanky rooms and suites, each with hedonistic bathrooms, useful kitchenettes and panoramic windows.
Fairmont Le Château Frontenac
Certainly, the fortified city’s most iconic landmark, Fairmont Le Château Frontenac the castle-like hotel crowns Vieux-Quebec, the historic part of the city, providing sweeping views of the St. Lawrence River below. Designated a National Historic site and on the UNESCO World Heritage list, this thoroughly redone, luxury retreat offers capacious modern rooms and oodles of atmosphere. Though guests will feel pleasantly planted in the past, circa 1892 Chateau Frontenac features all the contemporary amenities in keeping with its five-star caliber, without losing a cinematic sense of nostalgia and mystery. Walk in to know why Alfred Hitchcock filmed here, Winston Churchill tippled in its famous bar and Grace Kelly met with adoring fans in its chandelier-bedecked lobby.
Auberge Saint-Antoine
At elegant Auberge Saint-Antoine, be steeped in history. The romantic hotel in Old Port, facing the St. Lawrence River, occupies the redone bones of three stately buildings. During construction, workers unearthed a treasure trove of fascinating artifacts, each one meticulously collected, now lovingly displayed in vitrines and as decor—an apropos nod to the past. Deftly juxtaposing the centuries-old objects, modern stylish interiors invite guests to experience how old and new together define Quebec’s state of being. Family-owned, a member of Relais & Chateaux, Saint-Antoine reigns as a gastronome’s haven with its farm-to-fork Chez Muffy, ensconced in an ancient maritime warehouse, replete with wooden beams and stone walls. Splurge on the Panorama Suite perched on the top floor. Its private balcony overlooks Quebec City.
Auberge Place d’Armes
A duo of centuries-old townhouses composes this hotel, which dominates a cobbled lane in Vieux-Quebec at the crossroads of two vibrant pedestrian streets. Beamed ceilings, exposed stone walls, hand-carved furniture and fireplaces conjure bygone days with an old-school French chic, while contemporary amenities ensure pampering and comfort—such as bathrooms, kitted out with black and white tiled floors ala Vermeer, soaking tubs and heated floors for cold winter days. A welcoming place for all, solo travelers will feel especially secure and welcome here. The small bar in Chez Jules makes a great loner’s retreat, enriched by its signature cocktail menu.
WHERE TO EAT
Le Continental
Anthony Bourdain was here—something every restaurant yearns to trumpet. Even then, this bastion of classic French gastronomy has earned its props the old-fashioned way: serving sensational food with professional white glove service since 1956. Tucked in an 1845-era building enjoy what Bourdain ate: Caesar Salad, Dover Sole and Beef Tartare. You’ll want to follow suit.
Chez Boulay-bistro boreal
The boreal forests of the Northern Territories, the home of First Nation People and early Quebecers who sated their appetites on wild fruit, forest mushrooms, game, water fish and plants, inspires this unique and authentic restaurant, bent on bringing truly regional food—with a twist—to the table. Chef Jean Luc Boulay and business partner Arnaud Marchand rise to the delectable challenge with inventive local dishes, inspired by the terrain’s bounty, from sea buckthorn to balsam fir.
Le Chic Shack
In Old Quebec’s Place d’Armes, this casual, amiable lunch and dinner hotspot draws crowds. They take a gourmet approach to burgers, shakes and—forget the fries—poutine, a local favorite, a pastiche of cheese curds, French fries and gravy. With items drawn from fresh local ingredients from lobster to mushrooms, making house-made sodas and cocktails too, the restaurant has untold fans.
Chez Rioux & Pettigrew
Four-course blind tasting menus with the option for pairings ensure you have ample opportunity to sample the chef’s experimental twist on local cuisine. Chez Rioux & Pettigrew delivers with regional dishes tweaked to reflect local gastronomy in a historic setting. Seasonal flavors and products summon the surrounding landscape and bring it to life in an urbane way, marked by an old-school vibe. Think: oysters with ginger and apple and gnocchi with mushroom and cheese.
Restaurant Légende
Reflecting the Quebec region’s profound reliance on its fertile fields, farms, forests and gardens, Légende not only draws from the terrain’s bounty but creates surprising, satisfyingly tasty menus and ala carte options, all inspired by Quebec’s native history. Dishes fall into three categories: Water, Earth and Land. In the restaurant’s elegant digs, dine on plates such as venison with Angelica root or Acadian Sturgeon Caviar with duck egg.
BEST BARS
Les Voûtes de Napoléon
Like most of Quebec City’s notable bars, Les Voûtes de Napoléon lies on the Grande Allée, a street awash with tree-shaded outdoor patios, restaurants, bars and cafes. Within a historic building’s basement, amongst stone walls, immerse in a classic Quebec City experience: “a boite à chansons,” an intimate room for folk singing performers.
Bar Ste-Angele
Tucked in a tiny street in Quebec’s Old City, Bar Ste-Angèle gets accolades for its moody Jazz scene and affordable prices. A lesser-known gem, it serves up both classic and creative cocktails, some served in pitchers and shareable with friends.
Le Drague
A beloved, welcoming venue for Quebec’s gay nightlife, Le Drague features dancing, drag shows, karaoke, and video poker. With three separate sections, the bar allows for completely different experiences depending on your mood. Check out the ground floor, known for its techno-reverberating disco.
INOX-Brewery
Quebec City’s most famous beer hall and microbrewery has been around for nearly four decades. Once located in the Old Port, it now occupies a vibrant niche on Grande-Allée. Convivial, it features an expansive sidewalk terrace, serves satisfying bar bites, has games from foosball to billiards and specializes in outstanding house-made beer. Try the Dunkel!
Pub L’Oncle Antoine
On cold nights expect a roaring natural wood fire anchoring the vaulted brick and stone walls that date back centuries. One of the oldest bars in North America, purportedly the haunt of myriad ghosts, Pub L’Oncle Antoine sports a secret speakeasy feel. Relax into a red leather seat and knock back a hot toddy while you nibble a plate of brie.
Nénuphar
Who doesn’t love the enigma of a speakeasy? Quebec City’s first hidden bar, quixotic Nénuphar secretes itself behind a door that says: SALLE DES MACHINES (Shh! Don’t tell.) Congenial, even family-friendly, the bar features such attributes as a bowling alley. A variety of chair types set a vintage chic tone fused with an homage to European art. Sip an absinthe or orange wine and yield to the mystery.
SHOPPING TIPS
Petit-Champlain Street
Said to be North America’s oldest shopping artery, stunning Petit-Champlain Street reigns as one of the world’s most creative and unique, as well. Dating back 400 years, lost in time, it vaunts 47 boutiques, galleries and restaurants. Don’t miss my favorite shop Boutique Oclan for artsy women’s wear.
Place Royale and Old Port
An antique lover’s mecca, the area around characteristic Place-Royale and the Old Port is a wunderkammer of curiosities. Galleries and shops abound. Don’t miss world-class, family- owned Galerie Royale, a well-known purveyor of contemporary artwork.
Épicerie J.A Moisan
Some of us don’t feel we’ve traveled to a faraway place unless we’ve roamed the aisles of a grocery store. Evoking both the past and the largesse of Quebec’s food scene, this fascinating and soul-satisfying old school grocery store stands out as the oldest in North America. Go hungry and you’ll have to buy a new suitcase to take your gourmet fare home.
Limoilou
Hip and trendy, Limoilou is a gentrified neighborhood set beneath leafy trees and populated with catawampus brick buildings. On the banks of the Charles River, it proffers a fine place for a walk, a beer or a coffee. If shopping for children, find Benjo, a fantastically original toy store, just steps off the main drag, 3e Avenue.
Avenue Cartier
Near National des Beaux-Arts de Québec, Avenue Cartier provides a less touristic Quebec experience. A haven of eclectic upscale stores and boutiques, pubs and restaurants, the street, adorned by oversized lampshades invites rambling lingering and shopping delights for all ages.
WHAT TO DO
Ride the Funicular
Like a bridge, the short funicular connects postcard-perfect Lower Town with the high-altitude expanse where Chateau Frontenac stands. Operating since 1879, the ride up offers an opportunity to glimpse stunning vistas of the river and city from a bird’s eye perspective.
Walking Tour Old Town
One of the best ways to experience the various layers and hear Quebec’s stories is to wander the city on foot with a local guide. Themed tours, such as ghost and crime walks or food and drink outings enthrall and delight. Try one offered by Get your Guide or Tours by Locals for a truly bespoke adventure.
Les Halles Cartier
In the Montcalm district this one-of-a-kind foodie’s complex brims with counters, venues, kiosks, shops and restaurants, each brandishing specialty products, produce and gourmet creations. Though modern, it conjures a bygone lifestyle, the sort where shoppers go to market to buy just what they need for the day. Reserve enough time to stop and nosh.
Musée National des Beaux-arts du Québec
Take an afternoon to peruse the glories of the, Musée National des Beaux-arts du Québec (MNBAQ) situated on the Plains of Abraham with more than 42,000 works spanning 400 years, the prodigious museum also holds visiting exhibitions and offers cultural activities, such as movies and musical performances. Sip a coffee in the cafe.
Parc de la Chute-Montmorency
Just a few minutes from Old Quebec, discover Quebec’s jaw-dropping wilderness at Montmorency Waterfall. Taller than Niagara Falls at 272.3 inches high, this natural wonder can be experienced in every season. Visitors ride a cable car to the top of the cliff to look over the falls or cross the suspension bridge to the belvedere, where the water roars at arm’s length. The most intrepid can engage in a heart-thumping via ferrata adventure (choose between three routes), or whoosh over the plunge pool on a double zipline.
